Raising Pelargoniums from Seed by the
Sprouting method.
Cliff Blackman, Victoria, Australia
Introduction
This
is about a method to start the germination process that will get your Pelargonium seeds to sprout prior to planting them into a seed-raising medium.
The procedure
| Remove
the seed from the mericarp. That is, take off the husk with the feathery tail.
Insert a needle and slit side of husk. It is then possible to tear open the husk
and let the seed fall out. |
| Scratch
the seed case on a vertically central line, on the rounded side (cotyledon
side), starting from a point as far as possible near to the bottom point and
continuing to the top centre point of the seed. (Diagram
A) Scratch sufficiently to get
through the hard skin, but try not to go deeper. It is easier to control the
seed for scratching if it is held on moistened paper towel.
It doesn’t slip around as much.
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After
scratching. Place the
seeds in a small container or petri dish on a single layer of paper towel. Align
all the seeds in the same direction. There
is no need to cover the seeds with paper - add sufficient boiled but cool
water to saturate the paper towelling -- making sure the seeds are flooded.
(A 500ml hand spray with 0.5gm/L of Phostrogen is beneficial for
watering or rinsing the germinating seeds). Replace the lid. Stand the petri dish so that the base is about 50 to 70 degrees to the horizontal (Diagram C) and rotate the dish so that the pointed end of the seed is downward (Diagram B). Any excess moisture will trickle out, leaving a small reservoir at the lower point of the dish; this will be absorbed as the paper towelling begins to dry. Make sure the paper towel reaches down to this area to be in contact with the moisture. |
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| Diagram C | Diagram B | |
Keep
shaded and within a temperature range of 21 to 24 degrees Celsius. The
higher temperature is preferable.
The
scratched seeds usually become swollen within 3 hours of saturation and the seed
case will commence to split open where it was scratched. If a seed has not
swollen and split, it may be because the scratch was not deep enough to allow
moisture penetration. At this point, it may need a very sharp needle to lightly
scratch the softened seed case.
Alternatively,
test the seed case, if it is still rock hard, then re-scratch a little harder
and deeper.
Maintain
moisture level -- do not allow the absorbent paper to dry out.
After
each inspection, use the hand spray for rinsing the seed, tip out surplus water
– the seeds do not fall out. --
Re-set as in Diagram C.
Twice daily inspect for growth and moisture level
After about 3 days the growth of the radicle will be noticeable on some
Any non-viable seed will quickly become soft and putrid. An unmistakable odour that you will need to get rid of.
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Photos by Cliff Blackman
Planting the sprouted seed
When
the rootlet is about 15mm long and the seed leaves are opening out, the seedling
can be potted up in a pasteurised seed raising mixture.
After
filling the pot with soil, water the soil/medium and dibble a hole just prior
to transferring the sprouted seed. Gently close the medium onto the rootlet.
The medium around the rootlet can be finally closed around the radical
with the help of a few squirts from the hand spray.
During
the last 12 years, 99% of my 3500 seedlings have been started with the Scratch
Method. This method has given
Cautions
Experiment
with some less important seed first.
Do
not use this scratch method for planting seeds in the traditional way
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